In the cellars of a fourteenth-century palazzo, close to the basilica of the same name, this is a fascinating, pristine monument to the ‘medieval fantasy’ architecture of the 1930s. Adored by Chaplin and Dalì, President Truman and the King of Sweden, Pratolini, Purificato and Fiume. The vegetable flan with chicken liver is a truly historic fourteenth-century French recipe, imported to Italy – it is said – by the Medicis. The owner is the world’s greatest collector of bookplates. An amazing anagrammed menu.