A baker’s boy, Gio Batta Luca Bonino, ‘Luchin’ to his friends, set up on his own and opened a tavern in the ancient carruggi alleyways. Since then, his farinata has been legendary on the Riviera, together with its old-fashioned genovesato, minestrone, meat loaf and stock fish. As essential and simple as ever, long tables are laid out under the arcades. A meeting place for artists and the cultural elite, with film directors like Soldati and Antonioni, and actors such as Gassman, advocates of the Genoese dialect, like the journalist-playwright Petrucci, its wood-fired oven has attracted the cream of Ligurian and international society for over a century. Run by the same family for four generations.