In the old days, this restaurant was frequented by butchers whose favourite dish was tripe. Later, it was discovered by Italian patriots who stopped off on their way from Venice to Lombardy and Piedmont. It soon became very fashionable and was referred to as the Temple of the Cuisine of Treviso. Regular clients included the poet Giovanni Comisso and the great soprano Toti Dal Monte.
This is one of the most famous desserts in the world. But who invented it? Carlo Campeol, the proprietor of the Ristorante Becchiere in Treviso, tells us the story. “In the Treviso area, there has always been a tradition of using ladyfinger biscuits, fresh egg yolks, mascarpone, sugar, and coffee, for making pick-me-ups for the elderly and for children in the mid-morning or mid-afternoon. The idea of bringing all the ingredients together and adding cocoa, however, came in the late 1960s to my mother, Alba di Pillo, and a young cook, Paolo Linguanotto, who was passionate about the art of pastry-making and who worked in the kitchens of the Beccherie in Treviso. Some light coffee (from a còcoma, or coffee pot) is poured over the ladyfingers, laid out in a dish, and a filling of mascarpone cream is then added to them. This is repeated on two layers, ending with a dusting of cocoa, and the Tiramisù is ready. In the original recipe there was no liqueur, as it was traditionally given to children and the elderly. The tempting name – literally “pick-me-up” – and the simplicity of the recipe is what has made it so incredibly popular around the world. The “birthplace” is given historical recognition by the gourmet Giuseppe Maffioli in his essay entitled La cucina trevigiana, and the date of birth can be seen in a list of desserts in book called Cucina di Marca, also written by Maffioli and published by Fernando Raris in the late 1970s. It did not yet have the name “Tirame-su”, however, simply because it did not yet officially exist. It was only a few years later that “Tiramisù” began to be served at the tables of the Beccherie in Treviso”.
This has always been the historic dish of the Ristorante Beccherie in Treviso. Records mentioning this sauce date back to the fourteenth-century Libro di Cucina, the first known recipe book in Veneto, and it was used in aristocratic cuisine mainly for red meats and hare. The guinea-fowl variant is a quintessentially Treviso recipe, based on the tradition of raising this noble bird in farmyards together with geese, ducks, and the more commonplace chickens, for such delicacies as “oca ròsta col sèano”, “ànara rosta”, and “poeastro in tècia”.
Describing the sauce is no easy task and only the restaurant’s recipe itself can give a true idea.
“Meticulous cooking of the guinea-fowl (ideally over 1.2 kilos) in the oven is required, together with preparation of its accompanying sauce. Clean and prepare the liver of the guinea-fowl, the lean pork, sopressa (a thick-grained garlic-flavoured sausage from Veneto), pickled green peppers, white-wine vinegar, salt and pepper to taste. Mince as follows: 200 g. guinea-fowl livers, 100 g. lean pork, 100 g. sopressa, 50 g. pickled green peppers, 1 clove garlic. The mince needs to be fried on a low heat in a pan with extra-virgin olive oil and made to contract by adding salt and freshly ground pepper to taste as soon as it comes to the boil, adding a ¼ of dry white wine, evaporating it until the sauce “shows its oil”. The guinea-fowl should be served in quarters (breast or drumstick) on a warmed dish, with most of it covered by a lavish quantity of the “pèreada” sauce, which needs to bond well with the meat. The perfect accompaniment consists of a slice of white polenta, toasted all round, and, in the autumn, “ciòdeti” (honey mushrooms) cooked with garlic and parsley. In the winter, it is excellent with late-radicchio salad with an oil-and-vinegar dressing for a refreshing taste, or grilled radicchio, which adds to the succulence of the dish.”